Alpine Savvy Knots Carabiner block, Learn about mechanical advantage techniques for climbing and rescue with Alpinesavvy, When anyone is tying what is potentially the most important knot of your/their life, it's best to give it your undivided attention, Sep 20, 2019 · Here’s an easy and elegant alternative for multi pitch rope management, that works for swinging leads or block leading, Knot block, This knot is also known as the Euro-Death Knot (“EDK”), Feb 20, 2020 · Below: Quad anchor tied with overhand knots in Dyneema webbing (photo and anchor by Dale Remsberg, a n IFMGA Certified Guide and Technical Director of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay, Nov 27, 2018 · On longer alpine climbs, bringing a cordelette gives you a ready-made source of material for rappel anchors, ” previously known as the Euro Death Knot, of EDK), Apr 8, 2025 · Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route, Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors, But there's one unusual case where you can lose almost 75% of the strength of a sling; check it out here, Sep 4, 2023 · Drop end 3:1 crevasse rescue sequence (team of three): Unfortunate Climber 1 falls in a crevasse, (The climbers on top remember that Climber 1 has the car keys, so they decide to pull ‘em out, As the second climbs up and the belayer takes in slack, the belayer ties a slip knot every 10 meters or so and clips the loop to the big carabiner, Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have, Watch this video for a fascinating look at how Metolius cams are handmade in Bend Oregon, USA, With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler, Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot, This versatile knot creates a secure, load-bearing loop in the middle of a rope without needing access to the ends, Tip - You can probably stop by, get a tour and see this for yourself! Oct 23, 2024 · Keep it quiet for the tie in knot This is a simple suggestion, but potentially a very important one: Avoid talking to someone when you, or they, are tying into the rope, washingtonalpineclub, (In the Portland Oregon area, the rappel off of Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge has a notorious knot-eating crack at the top, and is a great place to use this technique, I used that for many, many raps, a, Mar 14, 2025 · Just tie, dress and tighten properly, and check your damn knots! Perhaps some of the pearl-clutching occurred after the IFMG Exum guide Gary Falk died tragically nine years ago when a tether tied with a water knot released and he fell from the Owen-Spaulding rappel on the Grand Teton, (Premium Members can read all of ‘em, What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors, ) Climber 2 (middle) and Climber 3 (end) on top arrest the fall, Dec 6, 2023 · Alpine Savvy · December 6, 2023 · Easy way to pass the knot on a two rope, single strand rappel , Learn about it here, They all mean pretty much the same thing: creating an obstruction on one strand of your rappel rope, that cannot be pulled through the anchor master point, ) Aug 11, 2023 · A popular approach to crevasse rescue is to use a 2:1 “drop C” as the primary mechanical advantage system, Learn the tricks to make a perfect figure 8, plus how to do it so it's much easier to untie, What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand, But what about tying multiple knots in the same strand? Does that reduce the strength multiple times? What happens when you have a loop of cord tied with a knot, is the strength reduced in that? The Alpine Club of Italy did some testing, here are the answers, All you really need is the rope you’re attached to and two carabiners, Check out the “snap bowline”, where a slip knot and little bit of rope sorcery semi-magically cause a completed bowline to “snap” into place, Sep 20, 2025 · On my one of my early big wall climbs on the Prow route in Yosemite, my partner and I had such terrible rope management skills that we often found ourselves completely untying, either ourselves or the haul bag knot, to decluster some horrendous rope mess we had somehow made, spoztbg uvmtr wrmwsm aanboz hncdq bnijpo tmolj yadg lstsw mttx