Rock Climbing Finger Strength Reddit if you have freakishly long fingers you're going to suck at crimping comparatively speaking; long femurs = bad at squatting, etc, There's nothing wrong with training pull ups, but technique is the most important thing to learn in the beginning, You really don't want a finger injury in your first few months of climbing, I've talked about resting and finger strength but the same applies to all types of climbing movement and climbing strengths, Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine, Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries, Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it? In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength, Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple, Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport, Fixated strength testing for climbers is where dynamometry of the finger flexors is performed but the upper limb is “fixated” meaning it cannot move, It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all, This can be accomplished by strapping the arm down, placing it is specialty device, or simply just resting the elbow on a table so that it cannot move, But is it necessary? If 50% of your climbing performance was related to one key strength, wouldn’t you consider that necessary Jul 26, 2025 · Finger training is one of the essential components of climbing-specific training, I recently listen to a podcast with Dan Varian, a mentor of Aidan Roberts and co-founder of Beastmaker, talking about the outcome of different types of grips on the strength of the individual fingers in relation to their position (flexed in dip or open) and how this is often reflected in climbing styles, Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer), This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability, As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question, Does it look good? Any possible improvements? Reddit's rock climbing training community, I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength, Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day, 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community, My grip fails on certain holds, Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger tendies, My forearms like they’re getting stronger but my fingers feel stagnant, How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak, 28 votes, 75 comments, I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing, Climbing for 2 months? The best way to increase your finger strength right now is to just climb climb climb, Non-Fixated strength testing is the opposite, What would you… Reddit's rock climbing training community, When combined with the fact that you really just want to maximise climbing time when you're a beginner for general strength and technique training, you're better off avoiding and just climbing instead until later in your training, E, I'm not looking for rapid results or anything, Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps, I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength, Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses, Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve,
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